Drill Driver vs Impact Driver vs Hammer Drill

A drill driver, an impact driver and a hammer drill look much alike, and they all spin a bit. But each is built for a different job, and using the wrong one is slow work and hard on the tool and battery.

1. Drill driver

The all-rounder. It has a chuck that grips round and hex bits, a clutch you can set so it stops before it strips a screw, and usually two speeds.

Best for: drilling holes in timber, metal and plastic, and driving small to medium screws.
Not for: masonry or long, heavy screws.

2. Impact driver

Built for driving screws and bolts. When the screw gets hard to turn, a hammer inside gives rapid sideways blows that help it spin. It takes hex-shank bits in a quick-release holder.

Best for: long timber screws, batten screws, coach screws and driving lots of screws quickly.
Not for: fine work where you need a clutch, or drilling large clean holes.

Impact drivers are compact and easy on the wrist, because the hammer action does the hard work instead of your arm.

3. Hammer drill

A drill driver with an extra setting that adds a fast forward-and-back hammering action. That lets the bit chip its way into brick, block and concrete.

Best for: drilling brick, block and light concrete, plus everything a drill driver does.
Not for: lots of heavy concrete drilling. That's a job for a rotary hammer.

Use masonry bits for masonry, and switch the hammer setting off for timber and metal.

4. Which one first?

For most home workshops, a hammer drill covers the most jobs in one tool. Add an impact driver when you start driving a lot of screws. Many brands sell the two as a kit that shares the same batteries.

5. Battery tips

An impact driver works well on a small, light pack.
Hammer drilling into masonry draws more power, so a larger pack (4Ah or more) helps.
Stay with one battery system so every pack fits every tool.

Weighing up motor types too? See Brushless vs Brushed Drills.